A guide to different label folds and their uses

Overwhelmed by choice when it comes to label fold designs?

Not sure which type of fold will best suit the label in your garment or accessory?

Need help choosing a printed label or woven label that’s practical yet complements your brand identity?

Here’s everything you need to know about the different label folds available from Hallmark Labels, including the pros, cons, and expected costs of each. It’s something of a beginners’ guide for those of you who are new to labelling – but it might serve as a welcome reminder for business owners who are looking for some fresh input and inspiration, too.

Centre folded labels

As their name suggests, centre folded labels are folded in the middle to create a loop so one side can be attached to the product. They can be folded horizontally or vertically, depending on how much space there is to play with; vertically folded pieces create a longer and narrower label that can look more discreet. Sometimes, you’ll see centre folded labels referred to simply as loop fold labels.

Pros: Because they are easy to attach without damaging the print, they are the most popular choice for basic items like t-shirts and jumpers, and you’ll usually see them sewn into the neck area or side seams – but they lend themselves well to practically any piece of clothing. These labels can be adapted to include both a front and a back side, so there’s plenty of room for branding AND all the vitals, including sizing information and care instructions.

Cons: The only significant downside to centre folded labels is that, because they are quite literally folded over themselves, they can be an overly bulky option for clothes made from thinner fabrics.

End folded labels (left and right, and top and bottom)

End folded labels have their edges folded inward at either side of the label, either from the left to the right, or the top to the bottom. They are one of the more versatile types of labels, as their extra folds mean they can be attached by being stitched, heat sealed or stuck to the garment with adhesive. You’ll sometimes see them added to sleeves to help showcase a brand in a subtle yet effective way. (‘Each end’ labels are similar, but the two longest ends are folded over to create a rectangle.)

Pros: As they are sewn onto the folded parts, the label can float freely. There’s no need for any stitches to intrude on the printed area, resulting in a flawless design with uninterrupted text.Their folded edges mean that end folded labels are less likely to irritate the skin, delivering a more comfortable feel for the wearer.

Cons: Only the folded edges can be sewn into the product, which can sometimes make the label less secure in some applications. Design space is slightly more limited, too, so you’ll need to be super clear about what you want to include. If you are looking to add a lot of additional information to your labels, end folded labels might not be the right choice.

Mitre folded labels

Sleek, sophisticated and incredibly practical, mitre folded labels are folded diagonally at the ends to create a 45-degree angle at the corners. The label is sewn into a seam by attaching it to the diagonally folded edges.

Pros: Commonly sewn into the neck of a product, mitre folded labels enable the piece of clothing to be hung up on either a hook or a hanger. The two stitching points are not very wide, and there’s no rigidity along them, so mitre labels are fantastic for softer clothes that need a lot of free-flowing movement, like coats, blazers, jackets, and even children’s items. They are easy to display in retail stores and they add something of a professional, higher-end aesthetic, which is ideal for luxury items.

Cons: Mitre folded labels often need a slightly wider seam or space to accommodate the angled folds. They are also a little more complicated to manufacture – but don’t let this put you off, as the team here at Hallmark have the equipment and the know-how to keep your orders as competitively priced as possible.

Border labels

These labels have a specific emphasis on showcasing a border around the label, which may be raised or have a different texture or colour. There’s actually no folding involved in creating border labels, which are otherwise known as flat labels.

Pros: Offering a distinctive look with plenty of room for all your essential messaging, border labels deliver a polished and well-defined appearance that draws in a lot of attention, making them the design of choice for bespoke, high-quality pieces. The thicker border offers protection against wear and tear, meaning border labels are likely to last longer.

Cons: You are more limited when it comes to your label’s design, because the border might restrict the amount of space that’s available for more intricate logos and illustrations, or complex care information. Adding the border also means the label will end up being thicker and heavier than you might like if you are dealing with particularly delicate materials.

Manhattan (book) folded labels

Manhattan folded labels are similar to centre folded labels and looped labels but have additional folds on the top and bottom edges where the extra seam allowance gets folded over the back face. These edges are tucked under before the label is sewn to make sure no raw edges are exposed.

Pros: Manhattan labels are produced using one of the oldest and most traditional folds there is, so you can rest assured they won’t fray easily. They’re exceptionally good for relabelling projects.

Cons: The printing industry has evolved since Manhattan folded labels were introduced, and today’s cutting techniques can produce much more precise and lightweight options for manufacturers (in much faster timeframes, using much fewer resources). With all this in mind, these types of folded labels are not always a sensible and cost-effective option for modern-day clothing. Manhattan labels also notoriously hold a lot of weight – again, this isn’t what you want for lightweight items.

Custom label shapes

Custom labels can be circular, square, triangular, or cut to any specific shape to match the space demands of your item or simply to showcase something that’s unique about your brand.

Pros: They’re fun, they’re versatile, and they’re incredibly eye-catching, which means they are more likely to get attention from buyers.

Cons: Because of the extra time that’s involved in designing, printing and attaching custom shaped labels – and the custom moulds that may need to be produced – they can be slightly more expensive than their standard counterparts. We may also need to employ special sewing techniques to get them in situ.

Your handy folded label comparison table

Choosing the label fold that’s right for your project will come down to several factors, including the kind of fabric you’re working with, how much you’re willing to spend, and, of course, which label type will best complement your brand. Centre fold, end fold, and Manhattan fold labels are excellent for garment applications where comfort and durability are the main priorities, while mitre and border labels offer more refined, elegant options for high-end fashion sellers.

If you’d like more information on label folds and how they are used, or want to discuss your labelling requirements with a member of our sales team, please contact Hallmark Labels today. Prices, minimum order quantities (MOQs) and lead times vary between products, with 48 hour turnarounds often available.

And remember, we also design and create custom woven labels and eco-friendly cotton labels.